Dulini Leadwood Lodge, Sabi Sands: A Travel Advisor's Guide to Four Riverside Suites

I had just come from Royal Malewane, one of the most talked-about safari lodges in South Africa, when I arrived at Dulini Leadwood in the Sabi Sands. Leadwood sits at a more accessible price point, so I'll be honest: my expectations were set accordingly. Within fifteen minutes of arriving, they had been completely blown away.

It ended up being one of the best places I have ever stayed when it comes to service and care, and it was the last stop of my time in Africa, which made driving away even harder.

Where is Dulini Leadwood?

Dulini Leadwood is one of three Dulini lodges in the western sector of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, the private reserve on the south-western edge of Kruger National Park. The Sabi Sand's eastern boundary with Kruger is unfenced, so animals move freely between the two, and the reserve has long been known as one of the most reliable places in Africa to see leopard.

Leadwood sits on the banks of the Sand River, close to where it meets the Mabrak River, shaded by the leadwood and jackalberry trees the lodge is named after. Both rivers change completely with the seasons. In the wetter months they flow and draw wildlife to the banks; in the dry months the waterholes become the focus and the animals come to you.

The Sabi Sand is home to a long list of lodges, from Singita and Londolozi to Ulusaba, Leopard Hills, Inyati, Idube and Savanna, and choosing between them is one of the most common questions I'm asked. Leadwood's appeal is its size. With only four suites, it feels much more like a private house in the bush than a hotel.

The Dulini Collection today

When I stayed, the Dulini portfolio was three lodges on the river: Dulini Lodge, River Lodge and Leadwood. The family-run collection has since grown, and the names have changed slightly:

• Dulini Leadwood: four suites, the smallest and most contemporary of the three Sabi Sand lodges.

• Dulini River: six suites raised above the Sand River.

• Dulini Moya: six suites on the Mabrak River, previously known as Dulini Lodge.

Dulini now also runs Anabezi in Zambia's Lower Zambezi and Daunara in Botswana's Okavango Delta, which makes it easy to build a longer southern African trip with the same operator. Within the Sabi Sand, the three lodges sit in the same area, so you can split your stay between them.

The suites at Leadwood

Leadwood was refurbished not long before my visit, and the design is what first won me over. The lodge brings the bush inside, with natural timber, crushed stone walls and raw concrete, paired with floor-to-ceiling glass and contemporary furniture. It is beautiful, but it also feels like somewhere you could actually relax, which isn't always the case with design-led lodges.

Opening the door to my suite, I walked out onto a large open deck that is perfect for watching game, with an oversized infinity pool that backs onto the outdoor shower. Each suite also has its own fireplace, which is lovely on crisp winter evenings.

Inside was even better than outside. The attention to detail in the design is impeccable. The open bathroom is centred on a large freestanding bath, with oils and salts to soak away the dust after an evening drive. There are his and hers basins against the back wall, and the shower is surrounded by glass and sliding doors, so you look straight out to your pool and the riverbank while you shower. It's one of my favourite showers anywhere.

The layout is clever. Although the suites aren't far apart, you can't see another room from yours, and your deck and pool are completely private.

Shared spaces include a lounge with a fireplace, a dining area, a boma for dinners under the stars, a viewing deck, a gym and a wine cellar.

The guiding

This is where Dulini really stood out for me. The guides were talented and clearly passionate about every part of their work, and my guide had been with the Dulini team for more than twelve years.

What makes a good guide great, in my view, is that their care for the wildlife comes before the guests' photos. Every tracking decision we made started with what was best for the animals, even when it meant giving up a sighting the guests would have loved. It's guides with this attitude who will protect the future of safari.

One evening drive showed exactly what that looks like. Two leopard cubs, about six months old, had been spotted playing in a stand of trees. Cubs without their mother are usually off limits because they haven't yet learnt how to behave around vehicles and people. After a radio call and a conversation between the guides in the area, it was agreed that one or two vehicles at a time could visit, as the cubs were just over the minimum viewing age of six months. Watching them, knowing it had been handled properly, was a highlight of the whole trip.

The little things

It was the extra touches that made Dulini special for me. The safari vehicle carried a full amenities kit with wipes, insect repellent, tissues, sunscreen and glasses. One night we ended a drive to find a bottle of champagne hanging from a candlelit tree in the middle of the bush, still a long way from the lodge, to celebrate the honeymoon of a couple in our vehicle. Another couple was surprised with a private dinner set on the top deck to finish their trip.

Those moments aren't scripted, so I can't promise the same for every guest, but they say a lot about how the team thinks. If you're celebrating a honeymoon or anniversary, let us know when booking so the lodge has a chance to plan.

When to go

The Sabi Sand is good year round, but the seasons feel very different.

• Dry season (roughly May to September): winter in South Africa. Days are mild and sunny, mornings and evenings can be cold, and with thinner bush and fewer water sources, game viewing is at its easiest. This is peak season.

• Green season (roughly November to March): summer. This is when the rain comes, the rivers fill and the bush turns lush and dense. Animals can be harder to spot in thick vegetation, but it's a beautiful time for birdlife and newborn animals, and it's often better value. It's also hot. I visited in November, and days reached around 38 degrees Celsius, with nights cooling to a comfortable 15.

• Shoulder months (April and October): a good balance of weather, sightings and availability.

The area is a malaria risk zone, higher in the wet summer months, so speak to your GP or a travel doctor well before you go.

Getting there

Most guests fly from Johannesburg to Skukuza Airport inside Kruger, then transfer by road to the lodge. You can also fly by light aircraft into the Ulusaba airstrip, which is roughly ten minutes from the Dulini lodges, and some itineraries come in by road via Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport near Nelspruit (Mbombela). From Australia, Leadwood combines easily with Cape Town, the Winelands or Victoria Falls.

Who Leadwood suits

Having stayed at both on the same trip, I'd describe Royal Malewane as more classic and exclusive, and Dulini Leadwood as modern and clean-lined. Both delivered exceptional guiding.

Leadwood suits couples, honeymooners and small groups of friends who want a quiet, personal safari with strong leopard viewing and a lodge that feels like a home. With just four suites, it feels intimate and personal. Families with young children should check the current child policy before booking, and Dulini River or Moya may be a better fit for larger groups.

Planning your Sabi Sands safari

I still can't wait to go back and see the other Dulini lodges for myself. If you're weighing up Leadwood against other Sabi Sand lodges, or want to combine a safari with Cape Town, Botswana or Zambia, we'd love to help you plan it at Prestige Travel & Events. Get in touch and we'll talk through the timing, the lodges and the logistics that suit your trip.

Dulini Leadwood FAQs

How many suites does Dulini Leadwood have?

Four. Each has a private deck and plunge pool, a fireplace and an open bathroom with a freestanding bath and outdoor shower.

Is Dulini Leadwood in Kruger National Park?

It's in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, a private reserve inside the Greater Kruger with an unfenced border to the national park. Private reserves allow off-road tracking and fewer vehicles at sightings.

What is the best time to visit the Sabi Sands?

For the easiest game viewing, the dry winter months from about May to September. For lush scenery, baby animals and better value, the summer green season from about November to March.

What is the difference between Dulini Leadwood, River and Moya?

All three are in the same part of the Sabi Sand. Leadwood has four suites and the most contemporary design; River and Moya each have six suites, which suits slightly larger groups.